Abandoned: a photo essay along the Salton Sea

I've always been fascinated by abandoned places. When I started being more serious about photography (when I was 19 and developped my own prints in the college photo lab), I would drive in the countryside around my hometown and stop to explore old barns or burnt structures. 

I wrote about the story of the Salton Sea a few months ago when we first visited. I wanted to go again, see more, feel more. When I walk into an abandoned building, I feel pulled in and pushed away at the same time.

When we stopped at Bombay Beach, the wind was howling and the sun was setting. I walked through the glass shards carefully in my sandals, noticing a dead fish that had found its way in a corner, an old blanket, a few rusty cans and, a small pink pillow (maybe a child lived here?). 

As we drove back, I tried to imagine who lived there before. What the house might have looked like when it was inhabited. When it provided shelter to a family.

If only walls could talk.

Slab City and East Jesus

Slab City is a squatters' camp deep in the badlands of California's poorest county, where the road ends and the sun reigns, about 190 miles southeast of Los Angeles and hour's drive from the Mexican border. The vast state-owned property gets its name from the concrete slabs spread out across the desert floor, the last remnants of a World War II–era military base. In the decades since it was decommissioned, dropouts and fugitives of all stripes have swelled its winter population to close to a thousand, though no one's really counting. These days, their numbers are growing thanks to a modest influx of recession refugees like the Angios, attracted by do-it-yourself, rent-free living beyond the reach of electricity, running water and the law. And while the complexion of the Slabs, as the place is locally known, may be changing in some ways, the same old rule applies: respect your neighbor, or stay the hell away.

In Slab City, there are Year-Rounders who brave the 120°F summer inferno, and Snowbirds who land from as far as Canada with their souped-up RVs and pensions, soul-searching Gypsy Kids who arrive by train with little more than the ragged clothes on their back, Spaz Kids and their electro-psychedelic outdoor parties, and Scrappers who risk life and limb to collect shrapnel from the gunnery range that flanks the camp, where Navy SEAL teams train year-round. That's to say nothing of the rowdy bikers who pass through, or the meth-addled loners on the outer edges inclined to greet a trespasser with a gunshot. If the Burning Man festival were a permanent settlement instead of a weeklong escape — remixed with a hard dose of reality — this might be it.

 "The Last Free Place in America" lives up to its nickname. Want to hang out nude in thermal mud baths or skateboard stoned in the bowl of an Olympic-size pool? Go for it. In the mood to dig an SUV-size trench for no particular reason or play 18 holes of golf on a grassless course to the sound of bombs in the distance? This is the place (excerpt from here). 

East Jesus is in the harshest, most remote part of Slab City, and is an experimental, habitable, extensible artwork in progress since 2006. It is constructed entirely of salvaged refuse and recycled materials and powered by the sun. It is a place that inspires one to think outside the box. To think about what it is modern society throws “away” while reminding us to consider where is “away” (excerpt from here).

Salvation Mountain, Slab City

Salvation Mountain is located in the lower desert of Southern California in Imperial County, just east of the Salton Sea, about an hour and a half from Palm Springs. Salvation Mountain is Leonard Knight's tribute to God and his gift to the world with its simple yet powerful message: God is Love. Leonard's passion has lovingly created this brilliant "outsider art" masterpiece resplendent with not only biblical and religious scripture, but also including flowers, trees, waterfalls, suns, bluebirds, and many other fascinating and colorful objects.

Salvation Mountain must be seen to be fully appreciated as those who have made the journey will attest. Its 50 foot height and 150 foot breadth is made totally of local adobe clay and donated paint and is truly unique in the United States and probably the world. From its Sea of Galilee at the bottom, to the big red heart in the middle, to the cross at the very top, the reoccurring theme of "Love" is everywhere.

A scene of the movie Into the Wild has been filmed there in 2007 in which you can see and hear Leonard talk about his mountain.

Leonard died in 2014, at the age of 82.

Boondocking in the Anza-Borrego desert

The friendships that you create on the road are quite unique. You spend many hours a day together, every day (if you choose to stick together, of course). You drink coffee in your pj’s around the bonfire, explore, drive places (and get stuck) and talk, talk, talk…

They have some of your forks and cups and you have their card decks and coats in your rig. You feed each others’ kids and care for them like they were your own.

Day after day, you share a bit more of who you are with them. It’s like a group love story on fast forward, friendship on speed. As the days go by, you realize that you will have to say goodbye at some point. And that feels heartbreaking.

It is hard to imagine that you have known each other for only 4 short months. It is hard to imagine life without them when they have taken so much space in your life. In your hearts.

And you realize that home really is an experience more than a place.

 

"When you travel, you release all ties to who you were yesterday, and you succumb to the person you are now. With that comes freedom and the ability to relate on a deeper level with the people you meet. This freedom brings celebration. (ytravelblog.com)"

La Jolla Cove

Mara and I kayaking in La Jolla

La Jolla Cove is San Diego’s most desirable spot for kayaking, snorkeling and diving. The water is calm and ecologically protected, providing a safe home for colorful garibaldi, yellowtail, rays and even leopard sharks. The harbor seals came very close to the people swimming on the beach. There was a little boy that even felt it was a little too close for comfort!

Actually, I wasn’t surprise to read that the small number of sea lions that swimmers used to enjoy watching frolic some years ago has turned into a colony of as many as 300, ranging in size from 100-pound females to 900-pound bulls, which have been mounting, biting, charging, and baring their teeth at swimmers and beachgoers.

Lately, the increasingly territorial animals have started blocking swimmers from getting into the water, forcing people to walk back and forth on the beach until they can find a safe opening to enter the ocean… Of course, people are exacerbating the problem by tossing fish, potato chips, and leftover food off the cliffs and over the sides of boats. While we were there, we saw a few people jump over the fence to take pictures of the seals and sea lions.


The other big disadvantage is the foul odor of sea lion and bird poop. And I mean, cover-your-face-with-your-t-shirt-or-scarf-exclaiming-OMG-this-is-awful foul. It is actually driving locals and tourists away from area restaurants and hotels.

Ocean Beach Farmers Market, San Diego

I love how a Farmers Market ambiance speaks about its city. Ocean Beach is a funky neighborhood with a free-spirited vibe and the Farmers Market was ubber-crunchy. There were lots of awesome greens and sprouts, raw food, , tons of vegan options, fresh artichokes, kumquats, cherimoyas, unique homemade arts, old hippies dancing to some good bluegrass live music. A real cornucopia of sights, sounds and smells.

We love to support local farmers as much as possible, and we love to have the freshest greens possible for our (almost) daily green juice.

We sat on the beach wall while we enjoyed our dinner. San Diego, you're awesome!

The Ocean Beach Farmer’s Market occurs every Wednesday from 4-8 pm, and is located on the 4900 Block of Newport Avenue, between Cable and Bacon Streets in Ocean Beach.

BMXing

When JF found out that we were camping 15 minutes away from the US Olympic Team Training Center in Chula Vista, he convinced us to check it out. Since our traveling friend Mat had done some BMX competition as a teen, it was even more exciting. Athletes from all over the world train there and we were lucky enough to see some of the fastest racers in the world when we were there during the pro training.

When the boys found out that it was possible to rent bikes and try the track, we decided to go for our friend Jennifer's birthday. They all had a blast (I borrowed Mat's D700 and 24-70 mm f2.8 amazing lens and took pictures instead). The smiles on their faces was priceless. Our girls had a few crashes, but got back on their bikes. 

Once the track closed, we had a tailgate party with cakes to celebrate! 

Banjo making and Old Town, San Diego

A friend had organized a homeschooling tour of the Deering Banjo company, the biggest banjo producer in the United States. It's always interesting to learn how things are made!

Then, we headed to Old Town, a San Diego neighborhood considered as the “birthplace” of California. San Diego is the site of the first permanent Spanish settlement in California. It was here in 1769, that Father Junipero Serra came to establish the very first mission in a chain of 21 missions that were to be the cornerstone of California’s colonization.

We visited the historic buildings La Casa de Estudillo, one of the oldest surviving examples of a typical large Spanish-Mexican U-shaped one-story town house in California. We then walked around Heritage Park where several of San Diego’s most notable Victorian homes have been relocated and authentically restored to their original splendor.

We all  had dinner  together on the terrace of a Mexican restaurant and celebrated another great week of traveling and exploring.

Sunday in Balboa Park, San Diego

Balboa Park is a 1,200-acre urban cultural park in San Diego. It’s actually larger than New York's Central Park! In addition to open space areas, natural vegetation zones, gardens, and walking paths, it is home to 15 major museums, renowed performing art venues and several theaters, housed mostly in ornate Spanish-Renaissance structures. Placed in reserve in 1835, the park's site is one of the oldest in the United States dedicated to public recreational use.

The Botanical Building in Balboa Park is probably the most photographed location in San Diego, and it's mostly due to the beautiful Lily Pond. Located in front of the building, this pond is home to a number of koi (Japanese fish), a few turtles and some lotus plants too. The US Naval Training Station actually used the pond to teach rowing and swimming to new sailors during World War I and the US Naval Hospital use dit as a physical therapy pool for wounded sailors during WWII.

It is especially busy on the weekends, but well worth a visit!

Cabrillo National Monument, San Diego

Cabrillo National Monument, established in 1913, commemorates Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo's voyage of discovery who led the first European expedition to explore what is now the west coast of the United States.

At the time Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo sailed into San Diego Bay in 1542, a rich diversity of life was present, ranging from desert cactus to moisture-loving algae, tarantulas to sea slugs, and gray foxes to sea lions. Approximately 3,000 Native Americans lived in the San Diego area at that time. The Kumeyaay, or Diegueños according to the Spanish accounts, lived simply in the environment but likely impacted the landscape through the use of fire. Today, largely due to the impacts of European colonization and centuries of growth and development, the habitat Cabrillo saw is now among the rarest in the world. 

During periods of low tide, pools form along this rocky intertidal area in which you may see flowery anemones, elusive octopi, spongy deadman's fingers, darting fishes and the always entertaining hermit crabs.

Under the palm trees...

We were delighted to find out that the campground where we decided to stay for two weeks was also a working farm. We slept under date palms (that had been harvested in September; we bought a pound of those delicious organic dates on location for $5!) and picked our own citrus (oranges, grapefruits and tangerines) in the trees near our bus for free!!

We swam in the pool, played pickleball (mini-tennis), shared meals outside at night, made some new friends from Quebec. There were roadrunners zooming through our campsites, a magic show by a fellow traveler that inspired our girls to create their own show, singing Christmas songs in bathing suits, sewing Christmas stocking outside and rollerblading hand in hand.

You can read an article I wrote on our unconventional life choices that was featured on the Rawfood Family blog.

Salton Sea, CA

The Salton Sea, California's largest lake by volume, exists entirely by accident. 

It was created in the early 1900s after a heavy rain caused the Colorado River to burst through the banks of an irrigation canal, sending millions of gallons of water into a previously dried out lake bed in the California desert. 

In the 50s and 60s, it was a booming tourist attraction. Marketed as a "miracle in the desert," it became Palm Springs but with beaches. It would regularly attract over half a million visitors annually. Stars like the Beach Boys and Sonny Bono would visit to drive speedboats and swim.

But it wouldn't last. 

The sea quickly became something of an ecological nightmare soup. The Salton Sea is surrounded by nearly half a million acres of agricultural land, and water from this land runs off into the sea, taking with it salt and fertilizers and pesticides. By the 70s, the water was becoming too hostile to sustain much of any kind of life, and the shoreline became littered with thousands and thousands of dead fish. 

The dead fish, combined with rotting algal blooms, made the water smell so bad that nobody wanted to go anywhere near it.

The Beach Boys left. Sonny Bono left. Everyone else left, and the Salton Sea fell into misery. 

If you were just driving past on Highway 111, you could be forgiven for thinking it's still a nice place. The weather is pleasant, the beaches are white, and flocks of birds glide along the blue surface of the water. 

But, as you climb out of your car and get close, it becomes a big old mess. The white beaches, it turns out, are white because they're made up of the pulverized bones of millions of dead fish.

And then the smell hits you. It's like a fish market at the end of a long summer day. Only instead of keeping the fish on ice, this fish market keeps them on piles of diarrhea.

Bombay Beach is the most developed place on the shores of the Salton Sea and it was once a pretty nice place. 
But then the sea started to burst its banks, regularly flooding large parts of the town. In the 80s, it became apparent that nothing could be done about it, so officials built a dike around half of the town and just let the sea take what it wanted.

Because of this, the shore is littered with dilapidated structures, falling apart as they sink into the ground. Of the town that hasn't sunk into the ground, about a third of it is abandoned (text copied from this site). 

It definitely has a very apocalypse-y feel.

Home sweet hell.

Hiking in Painted Canyon, Mecca, CA

Canyons are one of our favorite places to hike (especially slot canyons) and we were thrilled when JF found out about this place, an hour from our campground. There is something exhilarating about scrambling over rocks, squeezing between rocks and even climbing up and down precarious ladders. The last time we were in a canyon was two  years ago, in Utah. Our friends had never experienced a hike in a slot canyon before and it was so fun to share that wonderful moment with them. Children and adults alike exclaimed at each turn. Some parts required quite a bit of teamwork to get through! 

Kayaking in the waves

We sure made the best of that last day at the beach with our friends!

There were pelicans skimming over the water, a big puddle that became a lake for the little ones, hand-clapping games, Christmas songs thaught in French and English and a bonfire under the full moon by the ocean.

It was hard to leave this wonderful camping spot (Faria County Park, near Ventura, CA) and say goodbye to some of our friends who were continuing their adventures on different routes. 

By the ocean

I was woken up by the waves breaking on the rocks and splashing the bus’ bedroom window. I pulled the curtains open and watched with amusement, feeling like I was sleeping in a car wash.

All of a sudden, I see dolphins playing in the surf and we all get up and dress quickly and go outside. Our friends join us, there is laughter and soaking wet kids (and adults!) and salt-water coffee.

Later in the day, as the tide rolls out again, I sit on the rocks and listen to a friend’s wise words. There is a Skype music lesson with a view of the ocean. And kids swimming together at sunset and almost washed away sandals. Oh this is life!

Breaking down between Carmel-by-the-Sea and Big Sur

The intended plan was to drive on the coast from Monterey through Carmel-by-the-Sea to Big Sur and back before it got dark. The curvy road was busy on that Thanksgiving weekend and when the Westy went dead just as we were starting to cross a narrow bridge, we knew we could not have picked a better spot to break down... Our friends were right behind and started to direct traffic while our friend Mat pulled us to a flat spot on the side of the road. There was no cell signal and after finding a roadside call box, JF spent over an hour on the phone to get a towing. Our friends stayed with us the whole time (they were such troopers!), the kids played and explored the area. We watched dolphins and seals play in the turquoise water and even spotted a whale! There are definitely worst places to break down!

The kids tried to start a fire without matches and came up with tons of games to keep themselves busy and happy, we warmed up some soup in the Westy to feed the troops, watched a beautiful sunset, and when the stars started showing up in the sky and the towing was still nowhere in sight, we brought the lambskin, blanket and sleeping bags out and looked at the sky. We spotted three shooting stars and made wishes. It smelled of wild sage and sea mist. This is what memories are made of.

 

Pinnacles National Park

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The first 2,500 acres of the rugged Pinnacles were made a national monument in 1908 by President Theodore Roosevelt. Since 1908, the monument significantly increased in size to 26,000 acres and in 2013, President Barack Obama designated the expansive terrain as a national park.  The park's namesakes are the eroded leftovers of the western half of an extinct volcano that has moved 150 miles (240 km) from its original location on the San Andreas Fault. The rock formations are made of Rhyolite breccia that is composed of lava sand, ash, and angular chunks of rock that were explosively ejected from the Pinnacles Volcano and provide for spectacular pinnacles that attract rock climbers. The park features unusual talus caves that house at least thirteen species of bat.

It was so fun to walk through the dark caves on Bear Gulch Cave Trail and enjoy the beautiful view at the Reservoir while soaking up some sun. Touching the smooth bark of the Manzanita trees, talking with friends as we go, kids exclaiming how incredible this place is... Days like this remind us that this is why we do what we do!

Palo Alto Farmers Market

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It was our first time buying freshly picked local and organic persimmons and pomegranates. There were funky beets and radishes, and the most amazing variety of greens. In november.
Vegan, raw, gluten free and dairy free options were everywhere (actually, my friend Liza told me that when you are invited to eat at someone's place in California, it is tradition to list at least 3 intolerances/food restrictions!). Mathilde watched the woman operate the tortilla press for 15 min, hypnotized. We even danced to some street music. Oh that market was one of the best we have seen so far!